Tuesday, May 17, 2016

air conditioner - InspectAPedia

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How to Buy, Diagnose, Repair Air Conditioners & Heat Pumps:

This air conditioner & heat pump inspection, installation, diagnosis & repair article series explains in detail the inspection, troubleshooting diagnosis, and repair of all types of residential and light commercial central air conditioning and heat pump systems.

This article series describes how to inspect and repair all types of residential air conditioning systems (A/C systems). Information for home buyers, owners, and home inspectors about A/C or heat pump system problems. Page top image provided courtesy Carson Dunlop Associates.

A somewhat simpler schematic of an air conditioning-only system is provided just below.
Serbian flagSrpski prevod nad danaji stranica [Serbian translation of air conditioning diagnosis and repair articles]

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What are the Parts of an Air Conditioning or Heat Pump System & How do Air Conditioners & Heat Pumps Work?

This article series describes the basic components of an air conditioning system and then we discuss how to estimate the rated cooling capacity of an air conditioning system by examining various data tags and components.

Photograph of wall convector air conditioner being serviced Photograph of a modern A/C system compressor condenser unit pair Photograph of a modern A/C system indoor air handler unit Photograph of a modern A/C system compressor split system inside air handler

The limitations of visual inspection of A/C systems are described. We continue to add to and update this text as new details are provided. Detailed information about air conditioning purchase, installation, troubleshooting & repair is provided here - CONTACT us if you can't find something.

Air conditioning system schematic (C) Carson Dunlop AssociatesIf your air conditioner or heat pump system is not working, start at LOST COOLING CAPACITY for help in diagnosing and repairing the trouble.

Let's introduce the most basic concepts of air conditioning first:

Here is a simple explanation of how an air conditioning system works, with enough detail so that it isn't simply magic (the schematic of an air conditioner shown at left is compliments of Carson Dunlop)

A detailed list and photos of air conditioner components can be seen at AIR CONDITIONER COMPONENT PARTS.

  1. A air conditioning or heat pump compressor which compresses low pressure refrigerant gas into a high pressure, high temperature gas. Usually the compressor is in the outdoor portion of an air conditioning or heat pump system.

    The air conditioner or heat pump compressor unit is basically a high pressure pump driven by an electric motor. The air conditioning compressor is usually packaged in the outdoor compressor/condenser unit illustrated by our page top drawing.

    See COMPRESSOR CONDENSER, and see REFRIGERANT GASES & PIPING

  2. A condenser or condensing unit: typically a condensing coil inside which high temperature high pressure refrigerant gas flows, and over which a fan blows air to cool the refrigerant gas back to a liquid state (thus transferring heat from the refrigerant gas to the air being blown by the fan). The condenser unit is basically a coil of finned tubing and a fan to blow air across the coil. Usually the condenser unit is in the outdoor portion of an air conditioning system, often packaged along with the compressor motor discussed above.

    See COMPRESSOR CONDENSER and see our page top sketch too. The change of state of the refrigerant, from hot high pressure gas to a liquid releases heat, including heat collected inside the building) to the outdoors.

  3. A metering device which dispenses liquid refrigerant into an evaporator coil. The metering device may be simply a thin section of tubing (a capillary or "cap" tube) or it may be a bit more sophisticated thermostatic expansion valve (TEV) which includes a temperature sensing control that can open and shut the device against refrigerant flow.

    See THERMOSTATIC EXPANSION VALVES or see CAPILLARY TUBES.

  4. An evaporator coil or cooling coil: typically the cooling coil is a section of finned tubing (it looks a lot like a car radiator) into which liquid refrigerant is metered and permitted to evaporate from liquid to gas state inside the coil. This state change of the refrigerant, from liquid to gas, absorbs heat, cooling the evaporator coil surface and thus cooling indoor air blown across the cooling coil. Usually the cooling coil is located inside the air handler.

    See AIR HANDLER / BLOWER UNITS and articles like DIRTY COOLING COIL / EVAPORATOR COIL.

    Evaporative cooling systems, or swamp coolers are discussed separately at EVAPORATIVE COOLING SYSTEMS.

  5. An air handler and blower unit which provides a fan to blow building air across or through the evaporator coil. The air handler blower fan unit moves building air across the evaporator coil surface in order to condition building air by cooling it (and thus also by removing moisture from the cooled air).

    See AIR HANDLER / BLOWER UNITS and BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING.

  6. A duct system which distributes conditioned air from the air handler in to the occupied space (supply ducts), and which takes air from the occupied space and returns it to the cooling system air handler.

    See DUCT SYSTEM

  7. Heat Pump Systems use the same components we have described just above, with the addition of a reversing valve that in essence permits the system to run "backwards" in cold weather. So in air conditioning mode the heat pump is moving heat from inside the building to outdoors while in heating mode the heat pump is moving heat from outdoor air (or water in some designs) to the building interior. Because the ability of a heat pump to extract heat from outdoor air diminishes at low outdoor temperatures, heat pump systems in northern climates also include a backup or auxiliary heating system.

    Details of how heat pumps work, are inspected, diagnosed, and repaired begin at HEAT PUMPS.

  8. Air conditioner controls and features, which include a room thermostat, electrical switches, fuses or circuit breakers, condensate handling system, and air filters.

    See OPERATING CONTROLS and AIR FILTERS for HVAC SYSTEMS

    Or see THERMOSTATS, HEATING / COOLING for the basics of how to turn the air conditioner on & set room temperature.

For photographs of these various air conditioning and heat pump parts, and for an explanation of where these air conditioning components are physically located, see A/C COMPONENTS which discusses and helps you name and recognize various  Indoor A/C Components and Outdoor A/C Components

Also see these A/C & Heat Pump Diagnostic FAQs

...


Continue reading at DIAGNOSTIC GUIDES A/C / HEAT PUMP or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below.

Or see AIR HANDLER / BLOWER UNITS - home

Or see COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER REPAIR - home

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AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS - HVAC inspection, installation, diagnosis & repair procedures provided free at InspectApedia.com or select a topic from the More Reading links shown below.

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Troubleshoot Automotive Air Conditioning Problems

Troubleshoot Automotive Air Conditioning Problems
troubleshoot air conditioning
Home, Auto Repair Library, Auto Parts, Accessories, Tools, Manuals & Books, Car BLOG, Links, Index Copyright AA1Car

A/C COOLING PROBLEM?

The most likely cause of an automotive air conditioner cooling problem is no refrigerant in the system. If the refrigerant has escaped past a leaky compressor or O-ring seal, leaked out of a pinhole in the evaporator or condenser, or seeped out through a leaky hose, the leak needs to be identified and repaired before the system is recharged.

On many systems, the compressor will not turn on if the refrigerant is low because the "low pressure safety switch" prevents the compressor clutch from engaging if system pressure is low. This protects the compressor from possible damage caused by a lack of lubrication.

One of the first things you should check, therefore, is compressor engagement. If the compressors magnetic clutch is not engaging when the A/C is turned on, the problem may be a blown fuse or a wiring problem. If the fuse is blown, replacing it may restore cooling temporarily. But the underlying reason for the fuse blowing in the first place needs to be identified and corrected to prevent the same thing from happening again.

If the magnetic clutch is receiving voltage but is not engaging the compressor, the clutch is defective and needs to be replaced. If there is any evidence of leakage around the compressor shaft seal, the seal should also be replaced.

If the clutch works but fails to turn the compressor (the belt may squeal in protest!), the compressor has seized and needs to be replaced.

Compressor failures are usually the result of loss of lubrication, which in turn may be due to low refrigerant in the system, a blockage (such as a plugged orifice tube which prevents refrigerant and oil from circulating to the compressor), loss of lubricant due to leaks or improper service procedures (not adding oil to the system to compensate for oil lost through leakage or component replacement), or use of the wrong type of lubricant.

R-12 systems require mineral oil while R-134a systems require various types of PAG oil or POE oil. Using mineral oil in a newer R-134a system can cause serious lubrication problems as can using the wrong grade (viscosity) of PAG oil. Always follow the vehicle or lubricant manufacturers compressor oil recommendations.

The next thing you should check when troubleshooting a no cooling problem is system pressure. For this, you need a set of A/C service gauges. Attach your service gauges to the high and low service fittings. If both the high and low side pressure gauges read low, the system is low and needs recharging. But before any refrigerant is added, check for leaks to find out where the refrigerant is going.

A/C refrigerant leaksShare

AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEM: REFRIGERANT LEAKS

All vehicles leak some refrigerant past seals and through microscopic pores in hoses. The older the vehicle, the higher the rate of seepage. Newer vehicles have better seals and barrier style hoses so typically leak less than a few tenths of an ounce of refrigerant a year. But system capacities also tend to be smaller on newer vehicles, so any loss of refrigerant will have more of an adverse effect on cooling performance.

Various methods can be used to check for leaks. The telltale oil stains and wet spots that indicate leaks on older R-12 systems are less apparent on the newer R-134a systems because PAG lubricants are not as "oily" as mineral oil. This makes it harder to see leaks.

Leaks can be found by adding special dye to the system (available in pressurized cans premixed with refrigerant), an electronic leak detector, or plain old soapy water (spray on hose connections and watch for bubbles -- requires adding some refrigerant to system first and turning the A/C on). Once you've found a leak, repairs should be made prior to fully recharging the system. Most leak repairs involve replacing O-rings, seals or hoses. But if the evaporator or condenser are leaking, repairs can be expensive.

A/C diagnosis chart

POOR COOLING PERFORMANCE

Diagnosing an A/C cooling problem is best done by connecting a gauge set to the high and low pressure service fitting on the system. Though poor cooling is often due to a low charge of refrigerant, it can also be caused by many other factors (see chart above).

How to tell if your A/C system needs refrigerant: look at the LOW pressure gauge reading when the engine is OFF. On an 80 degree day, the LOW gauge should read about 56 psi or higher if the A/C system contains an adequate charge of refrigerant. On a 90 degree day, the LOW side reading should be about 70 psi or higher. If the LOW gauge reading is less than this, the A/C system probably needs some additional refrigerant.

Refer to the vehicle manufacturer specifications for normal system operating pressures, and the total refrigerant capacity of the system. Most newer passenger car A/C systems do not hold much refrigerant (14 to 28 oz.), so you don't want to add too much if the system is low.

AIR CONDITIONER PROBLEM: INTERMITTENT COOLING

An A/C system that blows cold air for awhile then warm air is probably freezing up. This can be caused by air and moisture in the system that allows ice to form and block the orifice tube.

Evacuating the system with a vacuum pump will purge it of unwanted air and moisture. Evacuation should be done with a vacuum pump that is capable of achieving and holding a high vacuum (29 inches) for at least 30 to 45 minutes.

For best performance, an A/C system should contain less than 2% air by weight. For every 1% increase in the amount of air that displaces refrigerant in the system, there will be a corresponding drop of about one degree in cooling performance. More than 6% air can cause a very noticeable drop in cooling performance, and possibly cause evaporator freeze-up.

Air can get inside a system through leaks, by not evacuating the system prior to recharging it, and/or by recharging the system with refrigerant that is contaminated with air. Recovery equipment can suck air into the recycling tank if an A/C system contains air or if the system has a leak. For this reason, the refrigerant recovery tank on recycling equipment must be checked and purged daily. On some equipment, this is done automatically. But on equipment that lacks an automatic purge cycle, tank pressure and temperature has to be measured and compared to a static pressure reference chart.

Some refrigerant identifier equipment can detect air in the system as well as other contaminants. An identifier should be used to check the refrigerant before the system is serviced to prevent cross-contamination of recovery and recycling equipment.

Possible causes of intermittent cooling in a manual A/C system that might be caused by an electrical problem include:

Faulty low pressure cutout switch. This switch prevents the compressor from running if the refrigerant level is low. If the cutout switch is not reading correctly, it can prevent the compressor from coming on.

Faulty compressor clutch. The magnetic clutch on the compressor requires full battery voltage to engage. If the voltage to the clutch is low, or the clutch coils have too much resistance, or the air gap in the clutch is too great, the clutch may not engage to drive the compressor.

Faulty compressor clutch relay. Check to see if the relay is receiving voltage when the A/C is turned on. Also check the relay wiring and ground connections. If bypassing the relay with a jumper wire or routing battery voltage directly to the compressor clutch makes the A/C work, the relay is probably bad.

Faulty A/C control switch. The switch may be worn and not making good contact when it is turned on.

Some possible causes of intermittent cooling (or no cooling) on automatic A/C systems include all of the above, plus:

A problem in the control module or control head (this usually requires using a dealer scan tool to read fault codes and perform self-diagnostics).

A bad temperature sensor (an ambient air temperature sensor, interior air temperature sensor, evaporator temperature sensor, or sunload sensor). Again, a factory scan tool is usually required to perform diagnostics on the system.

AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEM: NOISE

Noise from the compressor usually means the compressor is on its way out. But noise can also be caused by cross-contaminated refrigerant (operating pressure too high), air in the system or the wrong type of compressor lubricant.

Noise can also be caused by hoses or other parts rattling against other components in the engine compartment. Check the routing of the hoses, support brackets, etc., to pinpoint the noise.

TROUBLESHOOTING AIR CONDITIONING ODOR

If a vehicles air conditioner blows out air that smells like the inside of old gym sneaker when the A/C is turned on, microbes are growing on the evaporator. Mold likes damp, dark places. Bacteria can also thrive under such conditions. Besides smelling bad, it can be unhealthy to breathe (ever hear of Legionnaires Disease?).

To get rid of the unwanted organisms, various chemicals can be sprayed on the evaporator directly or through the blower ducts or air intake. Many replacement evaporators have a special chemical coating that inhibits the growth of mold and bacteria. The drainage tubes that carry condensation away from the evaporator should also be inspected and cleaned.

A/C FLUSHING

If the compressor has failed, or the system is full of sludge or contamination, the condenser, evaporator and hoses should all be flushed with an approved flushing chemical (such as Dura 141b) to clean the A/C system. Flushing can help prevent repeat compressor failures and system blockages by dislodging and cleaning out sludge and debris. Replacing badly contaminated parts such as the condenser, accumulator or receiver-drier and orifice tube or expansion valve is another way to get rid of these contaminants, but flushing is usually a more practical and economical choice. Regardless of which approach you use, the orifice tube or expansion valve should always be replaced when contamination is found.

NOTE: Some types of compressors can be very difficult to flush completely. These include "parallel" flow condensers and those with extremely small passegeways. If contaminated, these types of condensers must be replaced to reduce the risk of a repeat compressor failure. Installing an in-line filter is also recommended for added insurance,

When a compressor fails, a lot of metallic debris is often thrown into the system. Most of this debris collects in the condenser where it can cause blockages that reduce cooling performance. If the debris is carried through the condenser and enters the liquid line, it can plug the orifice tube or expansion valve. This can block the flow of refrigerant and lubricating oil causing a loss of cooling and possible compressor damage. Debris can also migrate backwards from the compressor through the suction hose causing blockages in the accumulator or receiver-drier.

Another source of trouble can be debris from old hoses that are deteriorating internally. Tiny flakes of rubber can be carried along to the orifice tube or expansion valve and cause a blockage.

Sludge is usually the result of moisture-contamination. The blackish goo that results can damage the compressor and plug the orifice tube or expansion valve. The moisture-absorbing "desiccant" in the accumulator or receiver-drier is supposed to prevent this from happening. But the desiccant can only hold so much moisture. Once saturated, sludge begins to form. So you should also replace the accumulator or receiver-drier if the system is contaminated, has leaks or must be opened up for repairs.

Another reason for flushing is to remove residual lubricating oil from the system. This should be done when retrofitting an R-12 system to R-134a. It should also be done if the lubricating oil is contaminated or the system contains the wrong type of oil for the application. Flushing out the old oil can prevent oil overcharging, reduced cooling performance and/or lubrication incompatibility problems.

For added insurance after flushing, you can install a high side filter to protect the orifice tube or expansion valve from any residual debris that might still be in the system, and/or a second filter in the suction hose to protect the compressor.

R134A RETROFIT

As long as R-12 is available, there is no real reason to convert older vehicles to R-134a. That is because R-12 systems cool best when charged with R-12 refrigerant. But converting to R-134a does make sense if your A/C system requires major A/C repairs (such as a new compressor, condenser or evaporator). The extra cost involved to make the changeover to R-134a does not add that much to the total repair bill.

A basic retrofit procedure can be done one of two ways. The "Type 1" retrofit follows the OEM recommended procedure and generally involves removing all the old mineral oil from the system, replacing the accumulator or receiver-drier with one that contains a desiccant (X-7) which is compatible with R-134a, replacing O-rings (if required), installing or replacing a high pressure cutout switch and/or orifice tube (if required), then adding the specified PAG oil and recharging the system with R-134a. Federal law also requires the installation of R-134a fittings on the high and low service ports to reduce the chance of refrigerant cross-contamination the next time the vehicle is serviced, and labels that identify the system has been converted to R-134a. For more information, see the R134A RETROFIT GUIDE program featured on this website.

Click on image for more info

A "Type 2" procedure is more of a "quick and cheap" approach to retrofit. On many 1989 through 1993 vintage vehicles, the R-12 A/C systems can be converted to R-134a by simply recovering any of the R-12 that is left in the system (NOTE: it is illegal to vent refrigerant into the atmosphere!), adding POE oil (which is compatible with both types of refrigerant), and then recharging with R-134a.

NOTE: Type 2 conversions cannot always be done on some vehicles because their compressors may not be compatible with R-134a (any compressor with Viton seals has to be replaced). This includes original equipment compressors such as Tecumseh HR980, some Keihin compressors and some Panasonic rotary valve style compressors in older Nissan vehicles.

Durability is another concern. Because R-134a raises compressor discharge pressures and increases the compressors work load, some lightweight compressors may not be rugged enough to tolerate R-134a over the long haul. This applies to the Harrison DA6 and Ford FX-15 compressors. The Harrison DA6 can be replaced with a HD-6, HR-6 or HR-6HE compressor. The Ford FX-15 compressor can be replaced with a FS-10 compressor. Share

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A/C Condenser Flushing

A/C Update: MACS Report - Jan 2001

OEM Service Note from MACS Convention - Jan 2000

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California proposes ban on R134a sales to motorists

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TROUBLE-CODES
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Troubleshooting Air Conditioner Compressor Problems

Your air conditioning compressor is a vital part of your air conditioning system. The compressor compresses cool, low pressure gas into a hot, high pressure gas, which is then sent to the condenser. Once this gas reaches the condenser, it is cooled into a liquid and sent to the evaporator. Although the compressor is only one of the three major components of your air conditioning system, if it fails, your entire air conditioning unit will not produce cool air effectively.

Minimize Unnecessary Air Conditioner Repairs

At Conditioned Air Inc., we believe that one of the most important but underused service is preventative maintenance. Most customers dont realize how much money they could save by utilizing this annual maintenance service until its too late and theyre calling us for air conditioner repairs. Preventative maintenance keeps your system running efficiently. Our technicians go through your entire HVAC system preparing it for the upcoming season. This proactive approach reduces occurrences of system failures like compressor issues.

Simple Compressor Troubleshooting Tips

Consider these minor troubleshooting tips if youre experiencing issues with your compressor.

  • Shut off the power to your air conditioning unit before you start any work on it. Check for any wires that look loose, worn or burned. Check for any damaged wire connections in the compressor terminal box. These types of damages will require professional repair services.
  • Check to see if the condenser fan starts and is working properly. Look at the compressor to see if it is not starting. If this is the case, then your air conditioner may be low on refrigerant, the compressor may be too hot or broken.
  • Inspect the fan motor because it can affect the compressor too. For example, a fan motor may lock when it is running or it may have poor wings. The fan motor can also have bad components that may need replacing.

Let a professional HVAC company determine the cause of your breakdown and make the correct repairs. The components of your air conditioner are complex. Any type of small mishap can easily turn into an expensive repair bill. If youre located in the Warner Robbins, GA, area, give us a call. We are heating, ventilation and air conditioning repair specialists who are also Carrier Factory Authorized Dealers. Receiving this endorsement was not an easy task. We had to meet strict national standards consistently to qualify, in addition to attending extensive factory training on the installation, maintenance and repair of Carrier products.

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Troubleshooting Air Conditioner Problems

Air conditioners are one of the greatest things ever invented; at least that is what someone will say for sure in the hottest days of summer. They do a great job of keeping you and your family cool at that time of year. It is hard to do any physical activity when its hot inside your home and sleeping can prove difficult too but thanks to air conditioning these things can easily be overcome. Air conditioners have also proved to be a very durable product but that does not mean they never have problems. When they do malfunction there is not a lot a consumer can do about them but there are some steps you can take for trouble shooting air conditioner problems.

1. Check the Power to the Air Conditioner

If you think your air conditioner is broken because it is not running, then before you can know if its malfunctioning or not you must first check to see if its getting power.

The very first thing you will check is to see if the breaker to the unit is tripped; if it is, just reset it and your unit should come on. If it trips again immediately there is a bigger problem and you will need to call a service professional.

If its not working even though the breaker is set, then if you know how to use an electric meter you can check to see if the main controls have power coming to them. If yes the problem is the air conditioner; if no then the problem is in the line someplace or the breaker is bad.

2. Check the Air Filter

Air conditioners need lots of air to make them work. Both window units and HVAC air conditioners have air intakes with filters; if these get clogged up with dirt, pet dander and other contaminants your air conditioner may work poorly or not at all.

On window units the filter should be cleaned at least bi-weekly because they are small and accumulate a large amount of debris quickly. This can be done simply by removing the filter and rinsing it off in the sink.

HVAC filters need to be replaced every 1 to 6 months depending on the quality of the air filters you have. The general rule here is that the more expensive the filter the more time it will last without replacing it.

If you fail in the troubleshooting air conditioning problems then dont be angry at yourself; professionals train for months and months to be able to do it. A word of advice; dont put a lot of money into fixing a window air conditioner because the repair price might exceed the cost of a new one. For HVAC air conditioners if these steps dont solve the problem then its best to call an HVAC technician to come out to your home to do the work.

Thank you for reading article Troubleshooting Air Conditioner Problems
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Air Conditioner Repair Help - Free troubleshooting and

To troubleshoot your air conditioner, enter the model number in the search box below. After entering your model number, well list the most common symptoms for your air conditioner. Once you select a symptom, well identify the model-specific parts and/or conditions that are associated with that symptom.

Enter your model number for the best repair help results:

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How to Troubleshoot an Air Conditioner eHow

  • Check for the simplest to fix and most commonly overlooked problems first. If the A/C will not turn on, check the thermostat. The thermostat might be turned off, or set at a temperature lower than the temperature that your A/C is programmed to turn on at.
    Next, make sure that an electrical breaker has not been tripped. Flip the breaker off and on again to make sure it is securely in the "on" position.

  • Inspect the condition of the blower unit if the A/C is not producing much air flow inside the dwelling. The blower unit is located inside the main A/C housing outside of your home, and looks like a "hamster wheel"-type fan. Clean the unit and check for bent or damaged blades that would reduce its effectiveness. Follow the duct system that runs from the A/C unit to the vents in the home; these are usually in the attic or basement. Look for ducts that are pinched, have a kink or have become disconnected. Also, clean or replace the A/C filter monthly during the summer season, as a dirty or clogged filter will hamper air flow. The A/C filter is located somewhere along the duct that returns air from the house to the A/C.

  • Check the fan for proper operation if you are not getting any air from your A/C. Spin the fan by hand. The blades should continue to spin on their own for about 5 seconds. If not, the bearings are going out, and the best course of action is to replace the fan motor.

  • If the A/C air is not cold enough, turn on the unit and allow it to run for 10 minutes. Shut it off, go to the A/C unit, and locate the suction line, which is a copper line that extends out of the unit in your home (see photo). Feel it with your hand. It should be ice cold. If not, the system probably needs more refrigerant. Call a professional for this, as both the addition of refrigerant and repair of any leaks need to be done by a licensed repairman.

  • Open the A/C housing on the outside unit and determine whether the compressor and/or fan are running. The compressor is inside the main A/C housing and looks like a round canister with tubing coming out of it (see photo). If the compressor is not running but the fan is, air would be flowing through your home's vents, although it will not be cold. If the compressor is not running and is very hot, the system is probably either low on refrigerant or the compressor is failing. Both of these issues require the services of a professional.

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    Air Conditioner Troubleshooting, A Homeowner's Guide To

    Before you make that call, try this basic air conditioner troubleshooting guide. This guide will help you to diagnose problems with your typical ducted split type air conditioner. A typical repairman will cost you about one hundred dollars per hour. With a few household tools and a little bit of knowledge, you can do it yourself and save that money. (You provide the tools and we will help with the knowledge part.)

    You should ensure that the routine maintenance has been performed on the unit. If the air filter has not been changed in the past month, check to see if it is dirty.

    **NOTE** ONLY YOU CAN ASSESS YOUR ABILITY TO PERFORM THIS TASK.

    THIS IS A GUIDE AND CANNOT PROVIDE ALL OF THE DETAILS FOR EVERY SITUATION.

    Begin your air conditioner troubleshooting at the thermostat by ensuring that the thermostat is on cool and that it is set lower than actual room temperature. This is to ensure that there really is a problem. It may seem silly but that is the first thing a repairman will check and you will normally still be charged a service call even if that is the only problem.

    Is there air coming out of the floor or ceiling registers?

    If there is not, then, check to see if the fan on the outside unit is running. If the fan on the outside unit is not running either, check to make sure that the breakers for the furnace/air handler and the air conditioner are on.

    If the breaker is not tripped, then the problem may be your thermostat, the furnace/air handler control board, or the wires between the furnace/air handler and the thermostat.

    If your unit has a condensate pump, check to make sure the reservoir is not full. If the reservoir is full, a limit switch will normally stop the air conditioner from running. You will need to repair or replace the pump.

    If the breaker is tripped, you can reset it by shutting it off and then turning it back on. If it trips again, then check the wiring in the furnace/air handler for signs of damage and repair as necessary.

    If the blower is running but the fan on the outside unit is not, then continue your air conditioner troubleshooting at the outside unit.

    Is the fan on the outside unit blowing out hot air?

    If the blower isn't running but the fan outside is, the problem could be the blower motor, it's run capacitor, or the furnace/air handler control board.

    If the fan motor is not running, then shut the power off to the unit. Then check all wire connections for signs of damage such as burning and repair as necessary. You should also check the wire connections in the compressor terminal box and repair if necessary.

    You can use our capacitor testing guide to check the unit's capacitors and replace as necessary.

    Continue your air conditioner troubleshooting by turning the power back on to the unit and observe whether the contactor closes or not. If the unit does not start, look for a reset button. Some units have a high pressure cutout switch that can be reset. Then, use a voltmeter to check to see if you have power to the unit and 24 vac to the contactor's coil. If you do not have power to the unit, you should check the wiring between the electric panel and the unit. If you do not have 24 volts to the contactor's coil, check the thermostat and the low voltage wires from the furnace/air handler to the condensing unit. If you have power to the unit and the coil on the contactor but the unit does not start, the unit's contactor may be bad.

    If the compressor starts but the fan does not, the condenser fan motor could be the problem.

    If the condenser fan starts but the compressor does not, the unit may be low on refrigerant, the compressor might be too hot, or the compressor might be bad.

    Do you see ice on the lines connecting the indoor and outdoor units or is there water around the furnace?

    If the blower on the furnace is running, check to see if you see any frost or ice around the units. You might also notice water around the furnace. Is there ice on the copper lines going outside? If yes, then shut the outside unit off for a couple of hours but let the blower on the furnace run. This will allow the ice to melt.

    After two hours, you can continue your air conditioner troubleshooting. Turn the ac back on and let it run for about five minutes. Now feel the larger copper line at the outdoor unit. This should be cold and have condensation on it. If it is not cold or if frost is forming on the line, it is probably a freon problem. You will need to call a repairman because of federal refrigerant usage regulations.

    If there is no ice or frost, then continue troubleshooting at the outside unit.

    Air Conditioner Troubleshooting, Insufficient Cooling?

    If the condenser fan and the compressor both run but the cooling effect is not adequate, you should check the temperature drop of the system. **NOTE** The unit should be operating for 10-15 minutes prior to taking temperature measurements. To measure the temperature drop, measure the air temperature leaving the air handler and subtract it from the temperature of the air entering the air handler. The result should be about 15 degrees for a high efficiency unit and about 18 to 20 degrees for an older unit (SEER less than 10). If the temperature drop is significantly lower than that, the problem may be the refrigerant charge.

    If the temperature drop is significantly higher than that, then your air conditioner troubleshooting should focus on the system's air flow. The evaporator coil, filter, or blower wheel could be dirty. This is usually the result of not performing routine maintenance on the system. It could also be caused by a duct system that is too small. This is usually the result of improper design or installation. You may be able to increase the blower's cooling speed or replace your existing blower motor with a variable speed motor to overcome that problem.

    Do you need further help? Now, you can get live support or leave a message for the HVACrepairguy.

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